How to take HDR photos
In my last blog post I talked in general terms about HDR photography and displayed some examples of HDR photos I have taken and why you might want to try HDR photography. In this blog post I will discuss how to actually take the photos that you will process using HDR software. In addition I will offer advise, some based on lessons I have learned the hard way. At the end I will provide links to sources on the web that will provide more detail.
While a single photo can be processed using HDR software you will generally get better results using three or more exposure bracketed photos. The goal is to get all the details in the scene especially in the shadows as well as the bright areas and while you may be able to get all those details from a single photo there will be scenes where the dynamic range is so great it can not be captured by the cameras sensor.
There are three basic things you need. First is a camera that allows you to change exposure settings. If your camera has a knob on it similar to the one pictured below then you have a camera that allows you to set and change exposure settings.
Better still is a camera that will automatically take three or more exposure bracketed photos. Here is a LINK that lists camera models from various manufacturers that can take auto exposure bracketed photos. It was last updated on March 31, 2017 so if you have a digital camera or are in the market for a digital camera and you don’t know if it has this capability then you can check the list. Or you can always read the manual.
If your camera does not have a knob similar to the one in the photo above you still may be able to take exposure bracketed photos. You will have to check your users manual to see if it's possible. The key elements are the ability to change exposure settings while maintaining the same aperture setting.
Secondly you need a sturdy tripod. While you can take your photos handheld you will get better results if you use a tripod especially if you are shooting at night or in low light.
TIP: If you are in the market for a tripod I have a suggestion. Spend the money to buy one that is capable of holding your camera with your heaviest lens rock steady. It will cost more but will be well worth it. Photography forums are loaded with posts from people who bought several progressively more expensive tripods before finally getting the one that properly supported their camera and lenses. In the process they spent more money than if they had just gone out and bought a good one in the first place.
Thirdly you need a scene that has a high dynamic range. If a scene does not have a high dynamic range there is not much point in going to the trouble of taking exposure bracketed photos. Below is an example of a low dynamic range photo and a high dynamic range photo. In the photo on the left the brightest parts are the white areas and the darkest parts are the black areas. In both areas there is really no detail in need of capturing thus it is a low dynamic range scene. In the photo in the center the brightest parts are the white buildings where there is really no detail in need of capturing. The darkest areas are in the shadows such as the interior of The Grotto Fish Market where the details can not be scene. This is a high dynamic range scene. I processed the center photo, a single image, in Photomatix Pro to show that the camera did capture the detail in the shadows but the camera can not create a photo that will show the full dynamic range captured by it's sensor. The result was the photo on the right. You can click on them to enlarge them.
Now that the basics are out of the way it’s time to take some photos. The first thing to do is turn your camera on and set it up for taking your exposure bracketed photos. The first thing you need to do is set your camera to aperture priority mode. This is the AV setting on the mode dial for most cameras. DO NOT USE your camera’s Auto setting. Using Auto mode will introduce to many variations between your photos resulting in less than desirable results.
TIP: For best results take RAW images
TIP: Every time you go out to shoot the first thing you should do after turning your camera on is check your settings and make sure they are set for how you intend to shoot . This includes checking your autofocus and image stabilization settings. Failure to do so can result in ruined photos and you may not have a chance to re-shoot.
If you are an advanced photographer you can use the Manual setting. It is important to have the same aperture setting for each photo. When you change the aperture setting the depth of field in your photo changes and this can lead to less than desirable results when you merge your photos. Personally I use Aperture Priority and let the camera take care of the shutter speed as the exposure changes. Aperture priority mode is the easiest and most full proof mode to use for taking exposure bracketed photos.
TIP: Most lenses have a “sweet” spot which is the aperture setting that produces the sharpest photos. Use it.
Below is an example of five exposure bracketed photos. Some cameras will only take three exposure bracketed photos and this is fine. Some will take up to nine. If your camera can take more than three exposure bracketed photos then you can determine the number you think is appropriate for the scene. BTW - These photos were taken hand held. I don't recommend that but I didn't have my tripod with me.
Use a low ISO setting. If you are shooting at night you may have to use a higher ISO setting to avoid very slow shutter speeds.
Turn off Image Stabilization unless you are shooting hand held.
If your camera can automatically take exposure bracketed photos turn that feature on and set it to the desired exposure range. If your camera can not do that then set it to the first exposure setting.
Mount your camera on your tripod and do whatever you can to make it as steady as possible.
Compose your scene, focus (I use Auto Focus), and then turn off Auto Focus.
If you are using a DSLR I suggest you lock your mirror in the up position after composing and focusing. This will eliminate mirror slap induced camera shake.
Set your shutter to a time release setting or use a remote trigger. Pressing down the shutter release button manually invariably introduces some camera shake.
Now take your photos. If your camera can not take automatic exposure bracketed photos then you will need to change the exposure setting after each photo. You want to make sure that you do not move your camera while changing the exposure setting.
That’s it. You will now have a set of exposure bracketed photos that you can process using HDR software. For more information on auto exposure bracketing check out these links.
In my next blog post I will discuss how to process your exposure bracketed photos in HDR software.
